Two peninsulas, two federally recognized wine regions, and more than 30 tasting rooms within a half hour of downtown Traverse City. Here is how the Old Mission and Leelanau wine trails differ, where to taste on each, and what it is like to live among the vines.
The Traverse City wine trails at a glance
Traverse City sits between two of Michigan's five American Viticultural Areas (AVAs): the Old Mission Peninsula and the Leelanau Peninsula. Both lie on the 45th parallel, the same latitude as Bordeaux and Piedmont, and both owe their vineyards to the deep, temperature-moderating water of Lake Michigan and Grand Traverse Bay.
- Old Mission Peninsula Wine Trail: 10 member wineries on a 19-mile peninsula that begins at the edge of Traverse City. Compact and easy to tour in a single afternoon.
- Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail: 20+ member wineries spread across three loops (Grand Traverse Bay, Northern, and Sleeping Bear), from the west side of Traverse City to Northport and Glen Arbor.
- Signature wines: Riesling above all, plus Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Gewürztraminer, sparkling wine, and ice wine.
- Best for a first visit: Old Mission, for its short distances and bay views from nearly every tasting room.
- Best for a long weekend: Leelanau, for its range of producers, villages, and the Sleeping Bear Dunes nearby.
Why great wine grows in Northern Michigan
The short answer is water. Grand Traverse Bay is deep: West Bay runs past 400 feet and East Bay past 600. That mass of water warms slowly in spring and cools slowly in fall. Buds stay dormant until the frost risk passes, and harvest stretches into October.
Latitude does the rest. The 45th parallel crosses the tip of Old Mission Peninsula and runs through Leelanau, sharing its line with Bordeaux, the Rhône, Piedmont, and Oregon's Willamette Valley. Long summer days ripen fruit while cool nights hold its acidity. The result is a cool-climate style: bright, precise, and food-friendly.
The region's two appellations came early in Michigan wine history:
- Leelanau Peninsula AVA: established March 30, 1982, the nation's tenth AVA and Michigan's second. Bernie Rink planted Boskydel Vineyard here in 1965, the peninsula's first commercial winery.
- Old Mission Peninsula AVA: established June 8, 1987, Michigan's fourth AVA. Edward O'Keefe founded Chateau Grand Traverse in 1974 and led the push for the designation.
I spent a decade in Napa, Sonoma, and Bordeaux alongside my husband, a winemaker and viticulturist, watching wine go from bud to bottle. What strikes me about this region is how much of that same care happens on family farms, often run by the second or third generation, with the bay in view from the rows.
The Old Mission Peninsula Wine Trail
The Old Mission Peninsula Wine Trail has 10 member wineries, most along M-37 (Center Road) as it climbs the spine of the peninsula between East and West Grand Traverse Bay. The peninsula is 19 miles long and 3 miles across at its widest, so no two stops are far apart. Start at the base near Traverse City and work north toward Old Mission Point.
Winery | Address | Known for |
|---|---|---|
Black Star Farms Old Mission | 360 McKinley Rd E | Barrel-built round bar, fireplace, wines and spirits |
Hawthorne Vineyards | 1000 Camino Maria Dr | Secluded hilltop tasting room about 4 miles from town, estate bottlings |
Mari Vineyards | 8175 Center Rd | Tuscan-inspired cellar, Italian varieties such as Nebbiolo |
Bowers Harbor Vineyards | 2896 Bowers Harbor Rd | Family-run since 1991, dog-friendly patio, vineyard trail |
Brys Estate Vineyard & Winery | 3309 Blue Water Rd | Bay-view deck and on-site lodging |
Peninsula Cellars | 11480 Center Rd | Tasting room in the historic Maple Grove Schoolhouse |
Chateau Grand Traverse | 12239 Center Rd | The peninsula's founding winery (1974), benchmark dry Riesling, inn |
Tabone Vineyards | 14916 Peninsula Dr | Small, family-owned stop on the West Bay side |
Chateau Chantal | 15900 Rue Devin | Hilltop chateau with inn and views of both bays |
2 Lads Winery | 16985 Smokey Hollow Rd | Modern tasting room, sparkling and still wines |
The peninsula is home to a few tasting rooms beyond trail membership, including Bonobo Winery. Hours shift by season, and several wineries ask groups to reserve ahead, so check before you go.
The Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail
The Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail counts more than 20 member wineries across a peninsula of roughly 330 square miles. To make that manageable, the trail is divided into three loops. Pick one per day.
Loop | Where it runs | Stops include |
|---|---|---|
Grand Traverse Bay Loop | Traverse City's west side north to Suttons Bay, along West Bay | Black Star Farms Suttons Bay, Mawby Sparkling, Ciccone Vineyard & Winery, Shady Lane Cellars, Brengman Brothers, Rove Estate, Two K Farms |
Northern Loop | Leland across to Suttons Bay and north to Omena and Northport | 45 North Vineyard & Winery, Aurora Cellars, Leelanau Cellars, Silver Leaf Vineyard, Verterra Winery, Gill's Pier |
Sleeping Bear Loop | The western shores of Lake Leelanau toward Glen Arbor and Cedar | Bel Lago Vineyard & Winery, Boathouse Vineyards, Good Harbor Vineyards, French Valley Vineyard, Chateau Fontaine, Amoritas Vineyards |
A few to know by name:
- Black Star Farms Suttons Bay: an inn, a farm-to-table restaurant, and an equestrian center on one estate.
- Mawby: Larry Mawby's house makes sparkling wine exclusively, and has for decades.
- Shady Lane Cellars: a fieldstone farmstead on the Leelanau Trail, an easy stop by bike.
- Good Harbor Vineyards: family owned since 1980 by third-generation fruit farmers.
- Bel Lago: sweeping views over Lake Leelanau and a long record with Auxerrois.
The trail runs seasonal passes throughout the year, including Harvest Days in September and a winter wine pass. Watch lpwines.com for current dates.
Old Mission vs. Leelanau: which wine trail is right for you?
Old Mission is the concentrated experience; Leelanau is the wider exploration. Many people who live here keep a favorite on each.
Old Mission Peninsula | Leelanau Peninsula | |
|---|---|---|
AVA established | 1987 | 1982 |
Trail wineries | 10 | 20+ |
Layout | One main road, M-37 | Three loops, M-22 and M-204 |
Distance from downtown TC | Trail begins within minutes | Grand Traverse Bay Loop begins on TC's west side |
Time to tour | Half day to a full day | A full day per loop |
Scenery | Bay views on both sides, cherry orchards | Villages, inland lakes, Lake Michigan, Sleeping Bear Dunes |
Pairs well with | Mission Point Lighthouse, a sunset on the bay | Suttons Bay, Leland's Fishtown, Glen Arbor |
When to visit Traverse City wine country
Every season has its own reason to go. Summer is busiest, fall is the favorite, and winter is the local secret.
- Spring (May to June): bud break and quiet tasting rooms. New releases start to pour.
- Summer (July to August): patios, long light, and peak crowds. Visit on a weekday morning, and avoid National Cherry Festival week if you want room at the bar.
- Fall (September to October): harvest. Fruit hangs on the vines, color turns on the hillsides, and the Leelanau trail's Harvest Days fill September.
- Winter (November to April): fireplaces, snow on the rows, and conversation with the people pouring. Some smaller tasting rooms close or shorten hours, so confirm before you drive out.
Living in Traverse City wine country
For many of our buyers, a weekend on the wine trail is where the question starts: what would it be like to live here? The two peninsulas answer it differently.
Old Mission Peninsula is rural and close. Homes sit among vineyards and cherry orchards, many with views of East or West Bay, and downtown Traverse City is a short drive away. Agricultural zoning and conservation easements shape what can be built, which is a large part of why the peninsula still looks the way it does. For a deeper look, see our Complete Guide to Living on Old Mission Peninsula.
Leelanau Peninsula offers more variety. Buyers can choose a village address in Suttons Bay, Leland, Northport, or Glen Arbor, a farmhouse on acreage, or frontage on Lake Michigan, Grand Traverse Bay, or one of the inland lakes. Our guide to buying waterfront property in Northern Michigan covers the questions to ask on any shoreline.
What buyers on Old Mission should know right now
In July 2025, a federal judge awarded 11 Old Mission wineries and their association nearly $50 million in a lawsuit challenging Peninsula Township's winery zoning rules. The township has appealed to the Sixth Circuit Court of Appeals. How any final judgment is paid could affect township services or property taxes, so buyers considering Peninsula Township should follow the case and ask about it during due diligence. We track it closely and are glad to walk you through where it stands.
Frequently asked questions
How many wineries are near Traverse City?
More than 30 wineries belong to the two trails closest to Traverse City: 10 on the Old Mission Peninsula Wine Trail and more than 20 on the Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail. Several more tasting rooms operate outside trail membership, including a few in town.
Which is better, Old Mission or Leelanau?
Neither is better; they suit different trips. Old Mission is compact, with 10 wineries along one road and bay views throughout. Leelanau is larger, with more than 20 wineries in three loops and a wider mix of villages, lakes, and producers.
Can you do the Old Mission wine trail in one day?
Yes. All 10 Old Mission trail wineries sit on a 19-mile peninsula that begins at the edge of Traverse City. Most visitors choose three to five stops for a relaxed half day or full day.
What wine is Traverse City known for?
Riesling. The cool climate and lake moderation of the 45th parallel produce Rieslings from bone dry to late harvest and ice wine. The region also makes respected Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, and sparkling wine.
When is the best time to visit Traverse City wineries?
September and October, during harvest, are the favorite months. Summer brings the longest hours and the biggest crowds. Winter is quiet and intimate, though some smaller tasting rooms shorten their hours.
Do I need reservations for wine tasting in Traverse City?
For groups, usually yes. Many wineries on both peninsulas ask larger parties to book ahead, and some require it on summer weekends. Couples and small groups can often walk in, but check each winery's policy first.
Is the Old Mission Peninsula on the 45th parallel?
Yes. The 45th parallel north crosses the northern end of the Old Mission Peninsula, halfway between the equator and the North Pole. It is the same latitude as Bordeaux in France and Piedmont in Italy.
Can you live near the wineries in Traverse City?
Yes. Homes on both peninsulas sit among vineyards and orchards, from village houses in Suttons Bay and Leland to rural properties and waterfront on Old Mission. The Ted Schweitzer Group helps buyers compare neighborhoods across both peninsulas.
Find your place among the vines
Whether you are planning a tasting weekend or wondering what it would mean to wake up to a vineyard view, we are always happy to talk it through. Ask us about a favorite tasting room, a quiet road on Old Mission, or which Leelanau village fits the way you live.
Jacquelyn Olson is a Realtor with the Ted Schweitzer Group at @properties Christie's International Real Estate, serving buyers and sellers across Traverse City, Old Mission Peninsula, Leelanau, Suttons Bay, and Elk Rapids. Before Northern Michigan, she spent a decade in Napa, Sonoma, and Bordeaux, where her husband worked as a winemaker and viticulturist.
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